Xcaret at night

The Spectacular Night is the finale to an extraordinary day at the park.  The evening begins in the stables where bold riders show off their cha-rreria (traditional Mexican horsemanship) skills, and adelitas perched gracefully above handsome steeds and dressed in the fashion of Mexico’s revolutionary times delight all with their daring riding to the sound of mariachi music that inspires all to dance and sing.

I had never witnessed riding of such caliber! Soon I hear a cheerful melody floating in the fresh night air enticing us to the Mexican fair:  It is a botellofono —a musical instrument formed by 200 bottles filled with water at different levels.  The smell of tasty dishes awakens my appetite... in the candy stands I find sugar-coated peanuts, cotton candy, marquesitas (cheese- filled waffles) and other typical delights.  The fair, taking me back to my childhood, also invites me to try my luck in its games.  I buy a balloon and take a black-and-white souvenir photo beneath the colorful paper lamps.

Accompanied by the song of the conch and other indigenous musical instruments, a beautiful girl called Lol-be, the Maya name for “flower of the path,” opens the great spectacle with a wonderful legend.  Other singing children appear, their melodies invoking the souls of our ancestors.

The Maya players of both teams in the ballgame (Coba and Xcaret) and the dignitaries on their palanquins enter followed by their councilors, handmaidens and other members of their court.  They bear offerings and tributes, as well as xoloxcuincles (valuable Mexican dogs, more than 500 years of existence, offered in these ceremonies) macaws,  pheasants and fruits.  With over one hundred participants dressed in animal skins and feathers, incense smoke wafting through the air and the cacophony of animals, the scene is so real that I feel as though I am attending a ballgame from a thousand years ago.  This game-ritual represents  the movement of the cosmos, duality, the fight between opposing elements (day and night) with the ball court , or tachtli, symbolizing the vault of heaven.

A great royal buzzard glides from one end of the stage to the other, signaling the start of the game.  The players smack the heavy nine-pound ball made of natural rubber with their hips.  Each attempt to pass it through the hoops fixed to the inclined walls incites the shouts and  applause of all, including me; when  they finally score, the court reverberates with emotion!  At the end of the game, the losing team delivers their offerings and tributes to the winners. The atmosphere is filled with the sound of waves. At the end of the stage, by the encircling river, a small boat brings soldiers bearing armors and banners  The battle with the native Mexicans marks the beginning of the cultural mestizaje (intermixing of races).  This is the end of the episode about ancient Mexico.

As the light dims, old Curicaveri tells the young Lol-Be the history of the creation of the stars and fire.   Two teams participate  in the Huarankua, or fire ballgame (from the state of Michoacan), ho-mage to Curicaveri, god of fire and the most exalted deity of the Purepecha culture.  Curicaveri represents wisdom, strength, intelligence and absolute power. 

The Huarankua awakens everyone’s admiration as the ball of fire rolls down the court, hit skillfully with canes.  The objective is to lead it into the opposing team’s side and score points. The power of the god of fire is placed upon the ball which is interchanged through the canes that serve as commanding hands or guides transmiting the power to lead the people. When the game comes to a close, the power of de fire is broken. Beneath the dark glow of the small candles handed out at the start of the show,  the silence is magnified in giving thanks to our Mother Earth.  Suddenly the strains of a band burst the silence and dancers dressed in colorful costumes are a feast for the eyes. 

Artists on stilts wearing enormous masks participate in a grandiose masquerade.  With each number, the Mexican people identify their home state and we let our happiness be known.  Foreigners also share our joy.  Dances, costumes, music, songs and lights create images full of energy.  The enchanting voices of the singers pierce my soul.  Streamers and confetti mark the grand finale and embraced us in the warmth of the party.  We are all one and from this moment Mexico will always live in our hearts.  Don’ t leave this land without experience it and learn about this part of our history!